Mesocycle 2 — Movement vocabulary + 7A exposure peak

All W2–W3 loads derive from the W1 Mon retest. Cycle-1 numbers shown as the provisional anchor; overwrite with retest results on 08-06. If a max moved, recompute the % loads off the new number.

1. 7A movement exposure — Mon project ladder + limit boulders (single max attempts) + Wed sub-limit movement volume
2. Contact power — Mon limit boulders + big-rung campus (W2/W3, conservative)
3. Finger strength — Wed repeaters 75–85 % (NO max hangs — tendon base still building), pinch integrated
4. Power endurance — Fri 4×4, staged 6A (W1) → 6A+ (W2) → 6B (W3); rounds 3→4→4
5. Maintain pull-ups + antagonists — Mon
6. Flash volume @ grade — Sat structured block 6B+/6C (movement-vocabulary building, 15–18 problems)

• No full crimp — half-crimp + open-hand only, through 09-11-2026 (6-month rule from 09-05-2026)
• No max hangs — repeaters (7s on / 3s off) only; peak load 85 %, still under the ~90 %+ max-hang threshold. Tendon base built in cycle 1 but not max-hang ready.
• Hangboard 1×/week (Wed only) — never on consecutive days
• No loaded finger work off Wed — hangboard + raw hanger are Wed-gym-only; rest-day home use = extensor bands + mobility, never loaded hangs
• Campus = big rungs / jugs only (matching + contact power). NO 1-3-5 on small edges. STOP the block on any finger twinge. Skip entirely if W3 fingers feel loaded.
• Stop on sharp finger / elbow / shoulder pain (not soreness, not pump)
• Missed sends 2× in a row OR sleep <6 h × 2 nights → next session lighter (drop intensity 1 level)
• Sun = full rest, no exceptions

For 6C+ → 7A, exposure to specific 7A boulders matters more than fitness gains. The send IS the training. Ladder now runs Mon (fresh fingers = best projecting). Carry forward any cycle-1 ladder problems that didn't go; pick fresh ones to fill 3 slots.

Selection — W1 Mon (08-06), end of limit block

• Grade band: 6B–6C Kilter @ 40° (≈ commercial 7A, allowing Kilter stiffness) — true 7A-exposure projects, harder than cycle 1's 30° ladder band.
• Lock angle to 40° for the whole cycle (consistent grade → honest attempt-count trend).
• Mix movement types: 1 dynamic, 1 static/balance/compression, 1 power-endurance/sustained. Different crux = different weakness audit.
• Save problem IDs in the Kilter app; write names + IDs into the table below.

Ladder (fill W1 Mon end-of-session)

Per-session protocol (W2 + W3 Mon)

• Pick 2 of 3 projects per session — rotate by energy + closeness-to-send
• ≤4 attempts per project · 4 min rest between · ~8 total attempt cap on the ladder block
• If a project sends: replace with a new 7A-band problem next Mon
• If a project stalls 2 sessions with zero progress: replace (wrong grade or wrong style for now)
• Tag the crux move-type on every failed attempt (in /log notes) — the tag distribution is the cycle-3 weakness target

Movement-type tags — log every failed attempt

Hold crimp · pinch · sloper · pocket · undercling · gaston Move dyno · bump · compression · static reach · cross-through · lock-off · mantle · high step · drop knee · sit-start Foot heel hook · toe hook · smear Style/wall coordination · balance · slab · tension

Repeaters 7s on / 3s off · 6 reps/set · 3 min rest between sets. Loads = % of the retest max (provisional kg assumes cycle-1 max holds).

Why 75–85 % (up from cycle 1's 60–80 %): tendon response confirmed across cycle 1 with no pain → step the repeater intensity up one band. Still repeaters, not max hangs — the on/off rhythm keeps load pulley-safe at this finger age.

No dedicated pinch block. Pinch was flagged weak Sat 23-05; address it cheaply:

• Wed hangboard: add pinch-block repeater set(s) after the open-hand sets — sub-max, same 7s on / 3s off rhythm.
• Mon antagonist block: swap one accessory for a plate-pinch carry / hold. Keep it light — pinch is a touch-up, not a cycle focus.

Home kit = hangboard + Nature Climbing raw hanger + finger extensor bands. Role is deliberately narrow — fingers aren't the bottleneck (grip ≈ 7B at 124 % BW), so the home tools add recovery + antagonist balance, never extra grip load.

• Loaded finger work (hangboard / raw hanger) = Wed gym only. Never on rest days. Loaded gripping on Tue/Thu/Sun eats the recovery windows the cycle is built on (Tue→Wed fingers · Thu→Fri · Sun→Mon power) for zero upside — and the tendon base isn't max-hang ready.
• Extensor bands = standing antagonist prehab. Light, full ROM, ~2 min. Every gym day: in the wrist/forearm warmup block (named there W1 Mon + Wed; tack it onto every session). Protects the flexor/extensor + elbow balance that finger age 1–3 yr is most exposed on.
• Rest days (Tue/Thu/Sun) — OPTIONAL ~5 min, non-loaded: extensor bands + tendon glides + wrist/forearm mobility. This is recovery (blood flow, antagonist), not a session. Skip freely; never add gripping load. Sun stays genuinely restful before Mon.

Carried from cycle 1 (settled 25-05). No standalone Thenx round during load weeks.

• Core block (~15 min, Thenx app, athlete picks): end of Mon + Wed, W1–W3, after main work before logging.
• Legs block (~15 min): end of Sat, W1–W3.
• W4 deload: skip in-session blocks; unrestricted Thenx OK (climbing is sub-maximal).
• Programmed support work (Mon push-ups / pike / scap / hollow body) is sized climbing-support — keep as written, don't stack chest Thenx the same day.

Cut Thenx if any of these flip

• Bodyweight creep >0.5 kg/month
• Wed first hangboard set RPE >7 at the prescribed %
• Fri 4×4 completion drops below baseline
• Medial/lateral elbow twinge persisting >24 h post-session
• Sleep <6 h two consecutive nights