All loads in this cycle derive from these. Updated post-cycle at retest 08-06-2026.

Current habit: 1 Thenx round/day = ~160 reps hypertrophy session. Stacked daily on 4 climbing sessions → ~9–10 stimuli/wk → recovery debt eats climbing gains (esp. Wed fingers + Fri PE) + risks bodyweight creep (62 kg now; grade ceiling tied to strength-to-weight). Decision 12-05-2026: priority = better climber → periodize Thenx with climbing load instead of running it parallel.

Load weeks (W1–3): in-session blocks only — Sat full Thenx round dropped 25-05-2026

Sat full Thenx round retired: leg work moved into in-session Sat leg block (see below). Core moved into in-session Mon + Wed blocks. No standalone Thenx round during load weeks.

Forbidden during load (apply across all in-session blocks): chest hypertrophy · lat/back hypertrophy · biceps · push-up volume (duplicates Mon) · pull-ups (duplicates climbing).

Deload week (W4): unrestricted

4 Thenx rounds/wk OK. Climbing is sub-maximal, recovery surplus available — use the deload week to catch up on Thenx progression. Resume periodization on cycle 2 start.

In-session calisthenics (programmed, NOT Thenx)

Mon push-ups (3×15) · pike (2×8) · scap pulls (2×5) · hollow body (3×30s) — these are sized climbing-support work, stay as written. Do not stack chest Thenx on the same day — that's the duplication trap.

In-session Thenx core block (added 25-05-2026)

15-min core block via Thenx app at end of Mon + Wed (W1–W3), placed after main climbing/strength work, before logging. Athlete picks exercises in-app — no exercise prescription here. Skipped in W4 deload. Rationale: Mon post-power = fresh CNS, core trains hard with anti-rotation carryover to limit moves; Wed post-hangboard = no trunk/finger competition, stable core supports finger position. Skipped Fri (PE already grinds trunk + grip endurance overlap).

In-session Thenx leg block (added 25-05-2026)

15-min leg block via Thenx app at end of Sat (W1–W3), placed after technique/bonus block, before cooldown. Athlete picks exercises in-app. Skipped in W4 deload. Rationale: Sat = lightest climbing day, sub-maximal effort, 48 h before Mon Kilter → full CNS recovery; legs not loaded by Sat climbing → no competition. 1×/wk dose = strength-support stimulus without hypertrophy creep (bodyweight-flag guarded). Replaces the dropped Sat Thenx round — same weekly leg stimulus, structured inside the session timer. Forbidden: heavy back-squat / deadlift loads that drive hypertrophy + bodyweight gain.

Cut Thenx further if any of these flip

• Bodyweight creep >0.5 kg/month
• Wed first hangboard set RPE >7 (target ≤6 on +9 kg)
• Fri 4×4 completion drops below baseline (4/4 at 6A RPE 8 → 3/4 or RPE 9)
• Medial / lateral elbow twinge persisting >24 h post-session
• Sleep <6 h two consecutive nights or HRV trend −10 % over 7 days

For 6C+ → 7A, exposure to specific 7A boulders matters more than fitness gains. Pick 3 fixed Kilter problems at start of cycle (W1 Wed), save them, grind across W2 + W3 Wed. The send IS the training.

Selection — at end of W1 Wed (13-05)

• Grade band: 6B–6C Kilter @ 30° (≈ commercial 7A on home wall, allowing for Kilter stiffness)
• Lock angle to 30° for whole cycle. Log if another user changed it. Same angle = same grade across sessions = honest attempt-count trend.
• Mix movement types across the 3: pick 1 dynamic (dyno / deadpoint / dynamic reach), 1 static / balance (compression / slow), 1 power-endurance (sustained crimps / long sequence). Different crux = different weakness audit.
• Save problem IDs in Kilter app. Write names + IDs in the table below as text edit.

Ladder (fill in W1 Wed end-of-session)

Per-session attempt protocol (W2 + W3 Wed)

• Pick 2 of 3 projects per session — rotate based on energy + closeness-to-send signal
• ≤3 attempts per project · 4 min rest between · 7–8 total attempt cap on ladder block
• If A sent: replace with new project next Wed (B + C continue across cycle)
• If A stalls 2 sessions running with zero progress: replace (wrong grade or wrong style for this cycle)

Movement-type tags — log every failed attempt

Pick one (sometimes two) per failed attempt:

Hold crimp · pinch · sloper · pocket · undercling · gaston Move dyno · bump · compression · static reach · cross-through · lock-off · mantle · high step · drop knee · sit-start Foot heel hook · toe hook · smear Style/wall coordination · balance · slab · tension

Log via /log → notes column. After 3–4 sessions a pattern appears = cycle 2 weakness target.

Why this beats random limit climbing

At 6C+ → 7A, bottleneck = (a) crux-move exposure repetitions and (b) willingness to commit fully on low-% moves. Random Kilter sets give variety but not the repeat-failure → understand-why → re-attempt loop that actually unlocks the grade. Fixed projects across 4–6 sessions = ~12–18 attempts per project = enough reps for the move to wire in.

1. Power + movement vocabulary — Wed project ladder + Mon Kilter sub-limit
2. Finger base — repeaters only (NO max hangs cycle 1), Mon
3. Maintain power endurance — Fri 4×4 at 6A, sub-maximal
4. Maintain pull-ups + antagonists — Mon
5. Flash volume @ grade — Sat structured block at 6B+/6C (movement-vocabulary building)

• No full crimp — half-crimp + open-hand only ×6 months from 09-05-2026
• No max hangs cycle 1 — repeaters (7s on / 3s off) only
• Hangboard ×2/week max, never on consecutive days → Mon only this cycle
• Stop on sharp finger / elbow / shoulder pain (not soreness, not pump)
• Missed sends 2× in a row OR sleep <6 h OR heart-rate variability drop >10% → next session lighter (drop intensity 1 level)
• Sun = full rest, no exceptions

Repeaters 7s on / 3s off · 6 reps/set · 3 min rest between sets. Loads expressed as added kg + % of baseline max.

Why under-max: 1–3 yr finger age + no structured hangboard history → tendon adaptation phase. Repeaters at 60–80 % max = pulley-safe stimulus. Cycle 2 may move to 80–90 % once tendon response confirmed at retest.